Just annnounced! And we had our hands-on session with the novelty including a presentation by CEO Edouard Meylan last week to bring you this comprehensive review of the new Moser Streamliner Perpetual Calendar.
Its been a kind of discovered secret, especially among Moser enthusiasts that the new Geneva Watch Days novelty will be the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. The hints peppering Edouard’s Instagram account have been suggesting the blending of two of Moser’s lines, and it was rather explicit that it will be their famous perpetual calendar with the new Streamliner. The only speculation prior to the official embargo lift is what will be the dial execution, and if there will be any special features. And indeed there are! Read on to discover.
But first, a moment to reflect on the two lines which are being blended:
The Moser Perpetual Calendar is, in our books, hands down, the best perpetual calendar in the market. was so in 2005 when it was announced. Still is so today. The Flash Calendar is not unique anymore, but its execution is still class leading. As is the ability to manipulate the calendar indicators via the crown – a convenient luxury which started in the industry with the Ulysse Nardin Perpetual Ludwig, and a flag carried with aplomb by the Moser. This user interface capability and the flash calendar concept has been joined by the MB&F LM Perpetual as well as the astronomically priced Greubel Forsey Quantieme Perpetual à Équation. But ultimately, the Moser stands out with it is the ultra simple, clean display which is still able to convey all the data for a perpetual calendar. Still the class leader by far, only to be matched by the quartz controlled Citizen Chronomaster.
We have covered the Moser Perpetual extensively in various articles:
- H. Moser Perpetual Calendar published in 2011
- More on the Perpetual Calendar follow on the finishing details, also published in 2011
- H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Only Watch 2015
- H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Funky Blue in 2016
- H. Moser & Cie. Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Concept in 2016
- Review: H.Moser & Cie. Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition in 2016
- Comprehensive Review: H. Moser Endeavour Perpetual Calendar in Funky Blue in 2017
- H. Moser Perpetual Calendar in Heritage case with a beautiful blue fumé enamel dial in 2021
The watch also appeared in several Perpetual Calendar Competitive Landscape comparisons in reviews of other watches as well as Perpetual Calendar compilations.
We have also covered the Streamliner lineup in detail in many articles:
- H. Moser Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic in 2020, at the launch
- H. Moser Streamliner Center Seconds in 2020
Both are detailed reviews with high resolution photographs, and the Streamliner has also appeared in our Luxury Steel Watch list as well as in the Competitive Landscape of other reviews.
And now, the latest to join the family. The Moser Streamliner Perpetual Calendar. The blending of two icons in the Moser family line.
Comprehensive Review: H. Moser Streamliner Perpetual Calendar
Retail price is SGD 82,200 / CHF 60,700. Inclusive of GST and VAT. As a comparison, the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in steel case retails for CHF 39, 900. And the Streamliner Center Seconds in steel SGD 33,000 / CHF 19 900.
The case, dial, hands and bracelet
The case remains the now signature organic aesthetic which was first seen on the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph. Even the 42.3mm nominal case diameter is exactly the same as its Chronograph elder but larger than the 40mm of the Center Seconds. This now familiar shape defies simple description, as it morphs from a round to a square with sloped shoulders, hinting at an octagon, yet not quite. The lines are fluid, the curves are geometric, resulting in a harmonious and complex shape. This visual is made even more attractive by the balance of contrasts and textures. The crown is retained at the off-center 4 o’clock position, and the case is water resistant to 120m.
The Moser Perpetual Calendar movement features a subsidiary seconds hand at 6 o’clock, but to keep with the sporty intents of the Streamliner Perpetual, Moser opted to construct a modification to the movement, and making the seconds display a Center Seconds one. This de-clutters the already uncluttered display of the Perpetual Calendar, making the watch looks even cleaner. At a first glance appears to be a straightforward time only watch, but on closer examination, one can clearly identify all the required data for a perpetual calendar. The small hands, centrally mounted and accented in red, indicating the months is still there. The large date display is at 4 o’clock. The power reserve indicator is still there. To add to the minimalistic vibes, the Moser logo is almost invisible, only to appear under certain lighting angles. This is made by building layers of transfer print of an almost transparent lacquer. The dial is charcoal black, a hue which Moser describes as Blackor fumé with sunburst pattern.
The other dial markings are consistent with the elder Streamliner design – the outer periphery of the dial is marked for the seconds in a pattern of lines alternating on each side of an imaginary circle, with red tips for each minute, and bar appliqué for each 5 minutes.
The lume on the hour and minute hands of the Streamliner Perpetual uses a material called Globolight®. This material is also used in the Chronograph and the Center Seconds. Instead of painted-on SuperLuminova, it uses a three-dimensional ceramic material which is infused with Super-LumiNova. It is claimed to be brighter with a longer lasting afterglow than painted lume. No lume is applied to the markers nor the seconds hand, nor the power reserve hand. Edouard tells us that only the essential is offered, and in the dark, the relative positions of the hands is sufficient to tell the time. Edouard furthers explains that the date date numerals are painted with SuperLumiNova, as the Moser date is a construction of superimposed discs which operate one after the other, from 1 to 15 then from 16 to 31. These discs are placed one on top of the other, and there is insufficient vertical space in the movement to accommodate the 3D Globolight without sacrificing the thinness of the mechanism.
The bracelet is the same as with the others in the Streamliner series. This is a good thing, as the bracelet is already excellent. As described in our first encounter with it on the Streamliner Chronograph, it is integrated to the watch head, and extends out like scales of a reptile, evoking the visual of the long discontinued Ebel Waves. The design is a single piece per link in a complex organic shape. The surface is brushed and as it flexes reveals the polished insides. It is very solidly built, yet it feels very supple and comfortable on the wrist.
Overall, the Streamliner DNA is very strong. There is no mistaking that this watch is a Streamliner. And that this watch is a H. Moser…even though overt branding is non-existant. The organic curvy shape of the case and bracelet is rather scintillating, to the extent that it is hard to remain composed when handling the watch. Apologies for not being able to contain the excitement.
The movement: HMC 812
The movement is the Schaffhausen in-house manufctured Caliber HMC 812. This is an elaboration over the base HMC 341 used in the other Moser perpetuals. The main difference in construction is that the HMC 812 uses a direct drive center seconds instead of the subsidiary seconds at 6 o’clock. This is an important distinction, the seconds hand is in the power flow, and is engaged with no flutter. However, it will require a redesign to the layout of the wheel train. The simpler way is to add an additional wheel train which is driven by the third wheel. The third wheel now drives the fourth wheel which remain in the power flow, but also the seconds hand via an intermediate wheel at the same time. The seconds hand is now no longer in the power flow, and visible flutter is usually noticeable. A spring is sometimes added to reduce this flutter, but this adds complication to the adjustment.
Other specifications of the HMC 341 remains – from the still innovative Flash Calendar, crown manipulation of the calendar indicators, to the leap year indicator on the case back.
The finishing is excellent, with the Moser double horizontal stripes applied to the now anthracite grey PVD coated bridges. The main plate is micro-blasted and features anthracite rhodium plating for a darker look, as one examines the case back as compared to their other perpetual offerings. Perhaps a more contemporary one in line with the sporty intentions of the Streamliner.
Moser has also opted to skeletonize parts of the movement to allow more of the train to be visible. Beautiful gold chatons with two of the largest being held in place by screws adorn the darkened plates stand out and particularly look magnificent in juxtaposition to the engraved, gold filled Moser logo. The mustache like spring lever beak to advance the leap year indicator and the red tipped spring holding and marking the correct cycle is beautifully made and finished. As is the exclusive modular, interchangeable Moser escapement with Straumann hairspring. With decades now on the scene, the movement has also proven itself to be reliable in daily use.
The competitive landscape
The competitive landscape for a perpetual calendar in a luxury steel case is small. And none are real competition, as none offer the clarity and simplicity of the uncluttered dial, nor the ability to use the crown to adjust all calendar features. Some are only offered in gold. At SGD 82k / CHF 60k, the Moser is mostly less expensive than competing watches, bar 1.
A possible direct is the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual at SGD 108,900 in steel. The Royal Oak needs no introduction, as it is the genesis of the luxury steel sports watch genre, when it was introduced as a time only watch in 1972.
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar is another possible rival. However, VC does not offer this complication in a steel case. The rose gold version retails for SGD 151,000 in gold bracelet.
Patek Philippe does offer a perpetual calendar in the Nautilus lineup. This is the Nautilus Ref. 5740, released in 2018. It too is in gold only, with the white gold version retailing for SGD 177,700.
The least expensive inhabitant in this landscape is the Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato Perpetual Calendar is available in steel, And retails for only CHF 34,500.
Concluding thoughts
This is a superbly handsome watch. All the elements to make it great are there. The uncluttered, easy to read dial is a model of clarity even if this is only a center seconds watch. It brilliantly hides the full information of a perpetual calendar in plain sight. The fumé style dial is a Moser signature, and the minimalistic branding is an icon to be revered. The organic shape, and fluid lines of the case and bracelet is another study of elegance and beauty. Coupled this with a beautiful movement, superbly finished, with elegant touches like the black anthracite plates, make this one of the best perpetuals in the market.
The pricing is a bit on the steep side, at SGD 82k, one can buy a Streamliner Center Seconds AND a Pioneer Perpetual Calendar. But considering the competitive offerings, it makes a good case for being in line with the market. Other than the GP, it outprices the others. The unrivaled clarity of the dial and the convenience of the movement design to manipulate the calendar only via crown and the Flash Calendar blessed the Moser Streamliner Perpetual Calendar with features that no others offer. And for us, it is love at first sight. As with the other two Streamliner models, it is a straight out high recommendation for a buy if you are in the market for a sporty, luxury steel perpetual calendar.
Photo Notes
Photographed in the Pacific Time (Moser agent) offices in Singapore. Hasselblad 907X/CFV II 50C with Hasselblad HC 4/120 Macro and HC 2.8/80 with H26 extension tube via XH Adapter. Profoto strobes. With elaboration and explainations on the watch as presented by Edouard Meylan via Zoom.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – STREAMLINER PERPETUAL CALENDAR
Reference 6812-1200, steel model, fumé dial, integrated steel bracelet
Case
Steel topped by a gently domed sapphire crystal
Diameter: 42.3 mm
Height without sapphire crystal: 11.0 mm
Screw-in crown at 4 o’clock adorned with an engraved “M”
See-through case-back
Water-resistant to 12 ATM
Bracelet
Integrated steel bracelet
Folding clasp with three steel blades, engraved with the Moser logo
Half-links available
Dial
Blackor fumé with sunburst pattern
H. Moser & Cie. logo in transparent lacquer
Hour and minute hands with Globolight® inserts
Central seconds, power reserve hand and months hand with white decal
Minute track for seconds and minutes
Applique indices
Movement
Hand-wound HMC 812 Manufacture calibre
Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes
Height: 6.3 mm
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
33 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 168 hours
Hacking seconds
Double barrel
Moser teeth for all wheels and pinions
Modular interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann® hairspring
Gold escapement wheel and pallet fork
Screwed gold mounts
Balance bridge, train wheel bridge, barrel bridge, and escapement plate with anthracite PVD finish
Main plate, stop lever, and week wheel bridge with microblasted laser finish and anthracite rhodium plating
Functions
Hours and minutes
Direct-drive central seconds
Perpetual calendar with date and month
Big date at 4 o’clock, numerals tilted to 26°
Month indicator via red central hand
Power reserve indicator
Leap year cycle indicator on movement side
