Watches and Wonders 2023: Highlights new watches from Rolex

In this year’s Watches and Wonders 2023, Rolex has introduced its new line-up – with highlights from the all-new Perpetual 1908 collection, as well as interesting updates and variants to the Daytona, Yacht-Master, Oyster Perpetual, and Day-Date series. Mark our words, you are looking at the beginning of a new era for Rolex.

Press Release information with commentary in italics.

New: Rolex Perpetual 1908

The price for the new Perpetual 1908 is S$30,800.

Elegant, classic and decidedly contemporary, the 1908 immortalizes Rolex’s age-long daring spirit. Its conception is the result of the brand’s comprehensive in-house expertise and unwavering commitment to excellence.

Rolex inaugurates its Perpetual collection with the Perpetual 1908, a name given to the model in homage to the year Hans Wilsdorf devised the name ‘Rolex’ to sign his creations and registered the brand in Switzerland.

This elegant and understated watch features a slim case crowned with a bezel that is part domed and part finely fluted. In 18 ct yellow or white gold, the case is fitted with a transparent case back which allows the technical sophistication and the decoration on the movement to be seen and admired. The particularly sleek dial, either intense white or intense black depending on the version, is graced with Arabic numerals 3, 9 and 12, and faceted index hour markers. It also offers a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock, with the words ‘Superlative Chronometer’ above it in an arc shape. The hour hand is distinctive for the circle just before the tip, while the minute hand is shaped like a two-edged sword. The model is fitted on a brown or black alligator leather strap, equipped with a Dualclasp, a double folding clasp.

The 1908 is equipped with Calibre 7140, unveiled this year. At the forefront of watchmaking technology, this movement includes the Chronergy escapement, the Syloxi hairspring and Paraflex shock absorbers. It is noteworthy also for its bridges that are finished with Rolex Côtes de Genève, a reinterpretation of a well-known decoration in watchmaking. Calibre 7140 enables the 1908 to display the small seconds, as well as the hours and minutes.

Like all Rolex watches, the Perpetual 1908 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

Deployant’s Commentary: The Perpetual 1908, in our humble opinion, is perhaps one of the best novelties from Rolex this year. We have always hoped that Rolex will launch something different from the usual, and the Perpetual 1908 is exactly what we are looking for.

The 39mm timepiece is elegant, with a rather classy and clean design. It is, however, nowhere close to being considered as a bland and boring piece. The hour hand, which features a distinctive circle just before the tip, and the fluted bezel are just some of the interesting touches that Rolex had incorporated into its new timepiece. Another highlight is the exhibition caseback – a rarity for Rolex watches – which allows us to view the new Calibre 7140 in its full glory.

We figured that this might perhaps replace the Cellini collection, which had produced some wonderful pieces over the years. We just hope that the new Perpetual collection will be more well-received by collectors – especially since it appears to have a lot to offer.

New: Rolex Yacht-Master 42

The price for the new Yacht-master 42, in RLX Titanium is S$19,600.

Light and robust, the new Yacht-Master 42, in RLX titanium, is the ally of those who revel in freedom. Especially suited to the demands and pressures of competitive sailing, it delivers exceptional performance.

Rolex is presenting a new version of the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42. This nautical watch is introduced for the first time in RLX titanium – a particularly strong but lightweight alloy – and is fitted on an Oyster bracelet. The new version stands out for its technical satin finish – a satin finish with a visible grain, a feature of Rolex watches in RLX titanium – which extends to the middle case sides, the edges of the bracelet links and the sides of the clasp cover. The chamfered top edges of the middle case lugs have a high-sheen finish, while the crown guard is polished.

With its bidirectional rotatable bezel fitted with a Cerachrom insert in matt black ceramic featuring raised and polished numerals and graduations, the Yacht-Master 42 in RLX titanium remains faithful to the aesthetics of the original model, unveiled in 2019. It is graced with an intense black dial in a fine satin finish, and its Oyster bracelet is equipped with the Easylink comfort extension link.

The new version of the Yacht-Master 42 is equipped with Calibre 3235, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling it to display the date as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.

Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

Deployant’s Commentary: This is the one of the rare times that Rolex had used titanium as a case material, and we think that the Yacht-Master is the perfect medium for that. We would like to imagine that the material – which is more robust and lighter than stainless steel – makes the Yacht-Master a rather tantalising and formidable tool watch. It also fits the contemporary design of the watch.

We shall reserve our comments until we have handled the watch, but the new Yacht-Master 42 – in RLX titanium – might have just set the benchmark for being the ultimate tool-watch. And one that we reckon is hard to beat.

New: Rolex Oyster Perpetual

The prices for the new Oyster Perpetual are S$7,900 (31mm), S$8,450 (36mm), and S$8,900 (41mm).

Alive with colour, vitality and positivity, the new dials of the Oyster Perpetual in 31 mm, 36 mm and 41 mm are dotted with many-coloured bubbles that joyfully reunite the five hues introduced to the range in 2020.

Rolex brings in a new dial decoration for its Oyster Perpetual range, recognized for its pure lines and universal elegance.

Named ‘Celebration’, this brand-new motif is available for the Oyster Perpetual 31, Oyster Perpetual 36 and Oyster Perpetual 41. Composed of differently sized bubbles fringed with black, it encapsulates the vivid colours of the lacquered dials introduced in 2020: candy pink, turquoise blue, yellow, coral red and green.

The Oyster Perpetual 31 is equipped with Calibre 2232, while the Oyster Perpetual 36 and Oyster Perpetual 41 are both fitted with Calibre 3230. These two movements at the forefront of watchmaking technology provide essential functions – hours, minutes and seconds.

Like all Rolex watches, these Oyster Perpetual models carry the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

Deployant’s Commentary: The new dial variant of the Oyster Perpetual (“OP”, for short) is one of the two watches that collectors certainly did not see it coming. This is a deviation from the standard (and mostly, serious) timepieces that Rolex is known to produce. Who knew Rolex had a fun side?

This is a refreshing timepiece from the Geneva-based watch manufacturer, although the effervescent timepiece might garner a couple of disapproving looks from purists. Then again, like many other collectors, we are definitely more excited to see Rolex moving out of their comfort zone and exploring something that is entirely out of their character.

New: Rolex Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36

The price for the new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36, featuring the champlevé enamel with puzzle motif dial, is to be confirmed.

With these versions of the Day-Date 36, Rolex brings an unexpected creative twist to one of its iconic models. By displaying a new emotion each day, the watch brings an element of spontaneity into the wearers’ daily life and allows them to invest the reading of time with their changing mood.

Rolex unveils three new variants of its Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36, full of joy and energy.

Crafted from 18 ct yellow, white or Everose gold, these watches have adopted an original face. Rather than showing the day of the week, the arc-shaped aperture at 12 o’clock displays an inspirational keyword in English – ‘Happy’, ‘Eternity’, ‘Gratitude’, ‘Peace’, ‘Faith’, ‘Love’ and ‘Hope’. The window at 3 o’clock reveals daily one of 31 exclusive emojis in place of the date.

Entirely created using champlevé enamelling, the dial is striking for the depth and intensity of its gleaming colours and decoration. The motif is inspired by a jigsaw puzzle. Turquoise blue, red, fuchsia, orange, green and yellow pieces fit together on a single-colour background, each representing one of the key moments in life. The hours are marked by 10 baguette-cut sapphires in six different hues set according to the main colour of the dial, which is turquoise blue on the 18 ct yellow gold and 18 ct white gold versions, and orange on the watch in 18 ct Everose gold.

The new versions of the Day-Date 36 are equipped with Calibre 3255, a movement at the forefront of watchmaking technology, enabling them to display a special keyword each day of the week and an individual emoji each day of the month, as well as the hours, minutes and seconds.

Like all Rolex watches, the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 carries the Superlative Chronometer certification, which ensures excellent performance on the wrist.

Deployant’s Commentary: This is the other Rolex that no one saw it coming. Period.

The new Day Date 36, with the champlevé enamel with puzzle motif dial, is such a controversial and polarising piece. It breaks every single proverbial rule that is associated with the manufacturer, but yet there is something so inherently cool and fascinating about it. Do not even get us started on the words and emojis that replaced the day and the date respectively.

This is not going to be everyone’s cup of tea, but it is undeniably an intriguing piece. More importantly, it signifies that this is not the Rolex of the yesteryear – this is the new Rolex, the brand that is not hesitant to make bold moves going forward. This is what we would like to see.

For more information on other novelties from Rolex, please check out Rolex’s website here.

Author’s Note: We have previously mentioned that the Yacht-Master 42 is the first Rolex to use a titanium case. This is incorrect – as we understand that the Deepsea Challenge had also used the same material. Much appreciated for a kind reader that had pointed that out.

Technical Specifications: Rolex Perpetual 1908

Case: 18 ct yellow or white gold, polished finish
Diameter: 39 mm
Material: Yellow or white gold
Bezel: Domed and fluted
Winding Crown: 18 ct gold, domed
Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire
Water Resistance: Waterproof to 50 metres / 165 feet
Movement Type: Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding
Calibre: 7140, Manufacture Rolex
Precision: -2/+2 sec/day, after casing
Oscillator: Syloxi hairspring in silicon with patented geometry. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
Winding: Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor
Power Reserve: Approximately 66 hours
Functions: Centre hour and minute hands, small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. Stop-seconds for exact time-setting.
Bracelet Type: Leather strap
Bracelet Material: Alligator leather
Clasp: Double folding Dualclasp
Dial: Intense black or white
Certification: Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Technical Specifications: Rolex Yacht-Master 42

Case: Oyster, RLX titanium
Diameter: 42 mm
Material: RLX titanium
Oyster Architecture: Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown
Bezel: Bidirectional rotatable 60-minute graduated bezel with matt black Cerachrom insert in ceramic, polished raised numerals and graduations
Winding Crown: Screw-down, Triplock triple waterproofness system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire, Cyclops lens over the date
Water Resistance: Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet
Movement Type: Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding
Calibre: 3235, Manufacture Rolex
Precision: -2/+2 sec/day, after casing
Oscillator: Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
Winding: Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor
Power Reserve: Approximately 70 hours
Functions: Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Instantaneous date with rapid setting. Stop-seconds for precise time-setting
Bracelet Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links
Bracelet Material: RLX titanium
Clasp: Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link
Dial: Intense black; Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence
Certification: Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Technical Specifications: Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Case: Oyster, Oystersteel
Diameter: 31mm, 36mm, or 41mm
Material: Oystersteel
Oyster Architecture: Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown
Bezel: Domed
Winding Crown: Screw-down, Twinlock triple waterproofness system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire
Water Resistance: Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet
Movement Type: Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding
Calibre: 3230, Manufacture Rolex (2232 for the OP 31)
Precision: -2/+2 sec/day, after casing
Oscillator: Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers (Syloxi hairspring in silicon with patented geometry. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers for the OP31)
Winding: Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor
Power Reserve: Approximately 70 hours (55 hours for OP31)
Functions: Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Stop-seconds for precise time-setting
Bracelet Type: Oyster, three-piece solid links
Bracelet Material: Oystersteel
Clasp: Folding Oysterlock safety clasp with Easylink 5 mm comfort extension link
Dial: Turquoise blue, Celebration motif; Highly legible Chromalight display with long-lasting blue luminescence
Certification: Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)

Technical Specifications: Rolex Day-Date 36

Case: Oyster
Diameter: 36mm
Material: 18ct Everose Gold, 18ct White Gold, or 18ct Yellow Gold
Oyster Architecture: Monobloc middle case, screw-down case back and winding crown
Bezel: Fluted
Winding Crown: Twinlock in 18 ct gold, screw-down, double waterproofness system
Crystal: Scratch-resistant sapphire with anti-reflective coating; Cyclops lens over the date
with double anti-reflective coating
Water Resistance: Waterproof to 100 metres / 330 feet
Movement Type: Perpetual, mechanical, self-winding
Calibre: 3255, Manufacture Rolex
Precision: -2/+2 sec/day, after casing
Oscillator: Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring. High-performance Paraflex shock absorbers
Winding: Bidirectional self-winding via Perpetual rotor
Power Reserve: Approximately 70 hours
Functions: Centre hour, minute and seconds hands. Stop-seconds for precise time-setting. Instantaneous keyword and emoji in windows at 12 o’clock and 3 o’clock with secure rapid-setting
Bracelet Type: President, three-piece solid links
Bracelet Material: 18ct Everose Gold, 18ct White Gold, or 18ct Yellow Gold
Clasp: Concealed folding Crownclasp
Dial: Orange or Turquoise Blue, enamelled, puzzle motif; 10 baguette-cut sapphires in varying hues,
in 18 ct gold settings
Certification: Superlative Chronometer (COSC + Rolex certification after casing)