The H. Moser & Cie. perpetual calendar is widely considered to be the most legible and easy to set on the market, as it can be adjusted both forwards and backwards at any time of day. In 2023, H. Moser & Cie. introduces this iconic model with a tantalum case – the first ever use of this rare and prestigious metal in the brand’s history. In shades of anthracite and blue, this unique material is enhanced by the ancestral technique of enamelling, featuring vibrant colours and an ultra-contemporary hammered texture to bring the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel to life.
Press Release information with commentary in italics.
Commentary
The H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Armour is an exceptional timepiece that combines sophisticated design, intricate mechanics, and the unique properties of tantalum. This watch offers not only accurate timekeeping but also the ability to display the date and month with perpetual accuracy, making it a highly sought-after watch among collectors.
The case of the watch is made from tantalum, which is known for its durability, resistance to corrosion, and unique grey-blue color. The case has a diameter of 42mm and a thickness of 13.1 mm, making it a substantial timepiece that is not overly heavy.
The dial of the Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Armour is sleek and refined, with silver hour markers, elegant leaf-shaped hands, and a small seconds sub-dial at 6 o’clock. The watch also features a power reserve indicator at the 9 o’clock position. The movement used in this watch is the in-house HMC 800 automatic movement, which has a power reserve of seven days and is visible through the sapphire crystal case back. The movement is beautifully finished, with Côtes de Genève decoration, blued screws, and an engraved H. Moser & Cie logo.
Overall, the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Armour is a stunning timepiece that combines high-quality materials, intricate mechanics, and sophisticated design.
Press Release
An iconic model, the perpetual calendar by H. Moser & Cie. is known for its complex movement, which nevertheless boasts unrivalled ease of use. The absence of a subdial and date disc makes it very easy to read. With the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, H. Moser & Cie. takes its minimalist philosophy even further by removing the brand logo and all indices except for those at 12 and 6 o’clock, in order to showcase the full beauty of the “Grand Feu” enamel dial.
Starting with a pattern engrained onto a gold base, as if hammered, four different colour pigments are washed, finely crushed, then applied to create an ombré effect. Careful work and limitless patience are required for the master enameller to painstakingly apply the pigments, adding them one by one so that the colours oxidise and meld together when heated in the furnace, without any pixellation.
A translucent “Grand Feu” enamel dial must be fired twelve times in total to create the signature H. Moser & Cie. fumé effect. Each dial is unique. The finish is remarkable: resolutely contemporary, with a particularly complex texture and an intense hue christened Abyss Blue.
At the centre, the small hand indicates the months, while a very large date window at 3 o’clock, with the “Flash Calendar” function providing an instant date change at midnight and a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock displaying the movement’s seven days of autonomy, complete the piece. The time and date are easy to set using the crown, and can be changed at any time of the day.
H. Moser & Cie. has revolutionised the perpetual calendar by transforming a complication designed for the most discerning of collectors into a watch that even a child could operate. The resulting aesthetic is instantly recognisable, proving that real luxury is a question of identity – even without obvious markers.
The watch is priced at CHF 75,000.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tantalum Blue Enamel, reference 1800-2000, tantalum and steel model, Abyss Blue fumé dial, grey kudu leather strap
Case
Tantalum
Diameter: 42.0 mm
Height: 13.1 mm
Curved sapphire crystal
Steel case-back with curved sapphire crystal Steel crown adorned with an “M”
Dial
Abyss Blue fumé “Grand Feu” enamel with hammered texture Leaf-shaped hands
Small arrow-shaped centre hand indicating the months Big date display
Movement
Hand-wound HMC 800 Manufacture calibre Diameter: 34.0 mm or 15 lignes
Height: 6.3 mm
Frequency: 18,000 Vib/h
32 jewels
Power reserve: minimum 7 days
Hacking seconds
Double barrel
Interchangeable Moser escapement
Original Straumann® hairspring
Pallet fork and escapement wheel made from gold Movement and components hand-finished and decorated
Functions
Hours and minutes
Perpetual calendar
Big date display
Month indicator via central hand Seconds dial at 6 o’clock
Power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock
Leap year cycle indicator on movement side
Strap
Hand-stitched grey kudu leather
Steel folding clasp, engraved with the Moser logo
3 Comments
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It’s a lot of money but every penny asked for in its price is supported by the great creative originality, the exceptional atypicality of the materials and of course, its magnificent motor ingenuity.
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