New: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327

Breguet updates their perpetual calendar in the Classique collection with the new Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327.

Press Release information with commentary in italics.

New: Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327

The new Breguet Classique Quantième Perpétuel 7327 Ref. 7327BB/11/9VU in white gold and Ref. 7327BR/11/9VU in rose gold case has a retail price of SGD 116,300. Price is inclusive of GST.

Commentary

The new 7327 will replace the long standing 5327, which we featured in 2013. The case remains the same magnificent coin edge signature that Breguet is well known for, and retains the elegance and classic look of the maison. The novelties are available in either a white gold or rose gold case, and measures 39mm in diameter by 9mm thick.

The movement has been updated with the new 502.3.P, which is of course made in-house by Breguet (Manufacture Breguet, which was Manufacture Lemania). This update results in the relocation of the month display to a retrograde display at 11 o’clock replacing the power reserve indicator which took that position in the 5327. This updated dial looks quite a bit cleaner than the old version. The rest of the sub-dial remain in approximately the same location. And the Breguet name plate now gets its own raised cartouche. The moon itself has lost the idiosyncratic cloud motif with smiling face styling to a more practical hand hammered look, something which may be missed by some as it suggests a less extravagant manufacture, but appreciated by others.

The dial is still guilloché by a rose engine from a solid piece of silver, and remains as impressive as ever.

As mentioned the 502.3.P is now powering this novelty, but it is not new, and is a perpetual calendar module over an ultra thin automatic base movement. The base is a time and tested true workhorse, having been in service in the previous 5327 and even in the older 3310 (released in 1986 during the tenure of Daniel Roth!). We also see the same simplification in the language used in the movement finish. While the 5327 featured engravings and a skeletonised rotor, the new movement is more simple and streamlined. But it is now equipped with a free spring balance with a silicon spring.

In terms of pricing, the new 7327 is offered at premium of approximately 8% over the older 5327, which at time of writing is still in the Breguet catalog and listed at SGD 107,100.

Release details

In the 1780s, Abraham-Louis Breguet enjoyed great success with his so-called perpétuelle watches equipped with an à secousses (moving) oscillating weight enabling the calibre to react to the wearer’s body movements and thus automatically wind the mechanism as they walked. These watches often incorporated a calendar mechanism and it was also on these models that Breguet experimented with his first guilloché silvered dials.

In 2023, Breguet pays tribute to it within its Classique collection through a reinterpretation of the perpetual calendar in two gold colours.

The new Quantième Perpétuel 7327 by Breguet reflects the very essence of the brand: a timepiece that is simple to use for its wearer yet complex in its realisation. This fascinating watchmaking function born in the 18th century displays the exact date, taking into account the variable length of the months and the leap-year cycle. To accomplish this feat, the movement must have a four-year mechanical “memory” corresponding to 1,461 days. The mechanism is based on a gearing system from the hour’s wheel and a large central lever that drives the entire movement on a daily basis. For this reason, no less than 294 components are required to bring this model to life. One of Breguet’s key objectives was to offer a light and comfortable timepiece and the Manufacture has thus opted for Calibre 502 with an additional calendar mechanism. At just 4.5 mm thick, the 502.3.P movement remains one of Breguet’s thinnest. It is designed to provide a high level of performance despite its thinness. Its barrel is open, contributing to its slenderness while guaranteeing constant, powerful energy. Its gold oscillating weight is off-centred to provide maximum space for the movement’s main components, enabling it to be integrated to a minimum thickness. This self-winding movement is rhodium-plated, beats at a frequency of 3 Hertz and has a 45-hour power reserve. It is equipped with a flat silicon balance-spring and an inverted straight-line escapement with silicon horns. Silicon has many properties, in addition to being resistant to corrosion and wear, it is insensitive to the influence of magnetic fields and improves the watch’s precision. 

Its movement, which can be admired through the sapphire case back, highlights a skill dear to Breguet: decoration. The gold oscillating weight is hand-engraved on a rose engine with a circular barleycorn motif, the bridges are adorned with Côtes de Genève, and the other components are finished with chamfered edges and likewise with Côtes de Genève. This highly precise craftsmanship is performed by the artisans in the Manufacture located in the heart of the Vallée de Joux.

A timepiece with an understated design

As fascinating on the movement side as on the dial, the new creation by Breguet features a timeless aesthetic, recalling the brand’s distinctive features in a contemporary spirit. The dial is adorned with a Clous de Paris hobnail pattern. Located between 1 and 2 o’clock, the moon phase has been designed to provide a strong sense of realism, notably thanks to its hand-hammered surface. Its sky is coated with a blue lacquer composed of spangles subtly revealing the stars depending on how the timepiece is turned. The day, date and year indicators are harmoniously entwined at the base of the dial. A quarter-circle bewteen 10 and 11 o’clock indicates the months via a retrograde hand. The hours and minutes are indicated by the traditional eccentric “moon” tip watch hands in blued steel. The secret Breguet signature, created by the founder in 1795, appears between 11 and 12 o’clock as well as between 12 and 1 o’clock.

The Classique collection

Both functional and emblematic, the Classique collection faithfully illustrates the aesthetic codes dating back to the brand’s origins. In addition to his talent as a watchmaker and inventor, Abraham-Louis Breguet was also one of the first designers well before the term was coined. When the company was founded in Paris in 1775, the baroque style was in vogue. He invented and introduced the neoclassical style to watchmaking. This aesthetic vision gave the dials an avant-garde look while making it easier to read the indications. He created the eccentric “moon” tip watch hands, the guilloché pattern and the off- centre dial, to name but a few. The latter design was used on pocket watches from 1812 onwards and established the brand’s DNA. Inspired by these creations, the 5327 Quantième Perpétuel joined the line-up in 2004. Its 2023 version is a contemporary embodiment while remaining faithful to the powerful signatures of the Classique line.

Available in 18K white or rose gold, this new timepiece is paired with a midnight blue strap for the white gold model and a mysterious brown strap for the rose gold version.